How to Replace Weatherstripping on an Exterior Door (Complete Guide)

2026-02-16Weatherstripping

Worn-out weatherstripping on an exterior door is one of the biggest energy wasters in any home. A 1/8-inch gap around a standard door lets in as much cold air as a 2.5-inch-diameter hole in your wall. Replacing weatherstripping is an inexpensive project — usually under $30 in materials — that can reduce your heating and cooling costs by 10–15%.

Signs Your Weatherstripping Needs Replacement

You can see daylight around the edges of a closed door
You feel drafts near the door, especially at the bottom
The weatherstripping is visibly cracked, torn, compressed flat, or missing pieces
You notice increased dust or insects entering near the door
Your energy bills have crept up without explanation
You can slide a dollar bill under the door when closed — if it pulls out easily, the seal is inadequate

Types of Door Weatherstripping

Door Sweeps

Door sweeps attach to the interior bottom of the door and brush or press against the threshold when closed. They come in aluminum or plastic housing with a rubber, vinyl, or bristle seal. Door sweeps are the easiest bottom-seal solution — they install with just a few screws and can be adjusted for height. Cost: $5–$15.

V-Strip (Tension Seal)

V-strip, also called tension seal, is a folded strip of metal or plastic that springs open to fill gaps. It's installed inside the door jamb where the door closes against it. V-strip is very durable (metal versions last 20+ years), provides a tight seal, and is nearly invisible when the door is closed. It's ideal for side and top jamb sealing. Cost: $5–$10 for a full door kit.

Foam Tape

Adhesive-backed foam tape is the cheapest and quickest weatherstripping to install — just peel, stick, and press. However, it's also the least durable, typically lasting only 1–3 years before compression permanently flattens it. Use closed-cell foam for better moisture resistance. Open-cell foam is cheaper but absorbs water and degrades quickly. Cost: $3–$8.

Bulb Seal (Tubular Rubber or Vinyl)

Bulb seal weatherstripping has a tubular section that compresses against the door when closed, creating an excellent air seal. It attaches to the door stop or jamb with an integrated flange that you nail or staple in place. Bulb seal is one of the most effective types for exterior doors because it conforms to irregular gaps. Cost: $8–$15.

Door Shoe

A door shoe wraps around the bottom edge of the door, providing a seal against the threshold on both the interior and exterior sides. They're more complex to install (you usually need to remove the door and may need to trim it) but provide the best bottom seal available. Door shoes are standard on high-quality exterior doors. Cost: $15–$30.

Tools and Materials Needed

Replacement weatherstripping (matched to your door type)
Tape measure
Utility knife
Tin snips (for metal V-strip)
Screwdriver or drill
Hammer and small nails or staple gun (for bulb seal)
Pry bar (for removing old kerf-style weatherstripping)
Rubbing alcohol and rags (for cleaning adhesive residue)

Removing Old Weatherstripping

Start by examining how the existing weatherstripping is attached:

Adhesive-backed foam: Peel it off by hand. Use a putty knife for stubborn sections. Clean residual adhesive with rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone.
Kerf-style (press-in): Kerf weatherstripping sits in a groove (kerf) cut into the door jamb. Grip the end with pliers and pull it out of the groove. If pieces break off, use a flathead screwdriver to pry them out.
Nailed or stapled: Use a pry bar or flathead screwdriver to remove nails. Pull staples with pliers or a staple remover.
Screw-mounted (door sweeps): Simply unscrew and remove.

Clean the surfaces thoroughly before installing new weatherstripping. Any old adhesive, paint, or debris will prevent a good seal.

Installing New Door Bottom Weatherstripping

Measure the door width. Measure the bottom of the door from jamb to jamb. Cut your sweep or door shoe to this length with tin snips or a hacksaw.
Position the sweep. Close the door and hold the sweep against the interior bottom. Adjust it so the rubber or vinyl strip makes firm contact with the threshold without dragging on the floor when opening.
Mark screw holes. With the sweep properly positioned, mark the screw hole locations with a pencil.
Pre-drill and attach. Drill pilot holes and drive the mounting screws. Most sweeps use slotted screw holes for height adjustment.
Test the seal. Close the door and check for daylight at the bottom. Adjust the sweep up or down as needed.

Installing Weatherstripping on Door Jambs

Measure each jamb. Measure the two side jambs and the head (top) jamb separately. Cut pieces to length.
For V-strip: Open the door. Apply the V-strip inside the jamb with the V opening facing outside. The strip should compress when the door closes. Nail or staple the flat side to the jamb. For the top jamb, position the V-strip on the door stop.
For kerf-style: Press the new weatherstripping spine into the kerf groove starting at one end. Use a putty knife to seat it firmly. Work your way along the entire length.
For bulb seal: Position the tubular section so it compresses against the door face when closed. Nail or staple the flange to the door stop, spacing fasteners every 2–3 inches.

Testing for Drafts After Installation

After installation, test your work:

Dollar bill test: Close a dollar bill in the door at multiple points. If you can pull it out without resistance, the seal needs adjustment.
Smoke test: On a windy day, hold a lit incense stick near the door edges. Watch for smoke being blown inward, indicating air leaks.
Visual test: At night, have someone shine a flashlight around the door edges from outside while you look from inside. Any light leaks indicate gaps.

Cost Savings and Energy Efficiency

The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that air leaks account for 25–30% of the energy used for heating and cooling in a typical home. Doors and windows are the primary culprits. Properly weatherstripping a single exterior door can save $50–$100 per year in energy costs, meaning the project pays for itself within the first season. In colder climates, the savings can be even greater.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should weatherstripping be replaced? Foam tape lasts 1–3 years, rubber and vinyl 5–8 years, and metal V-strip can last 20+ years. Inspect all exterior door weatherstripping annually, ideally before winter.

What's the best weatherstripping for a front door? For the jambs, metal V-strip or kerf-in rubber provides the most durable seal. For the bottom, an adjustable door sweep or door shoe is best. Avoid foam tape on exterior doors — it degrades too quickly.

Can I weatherstrip a door without removing it? Yes. Door sweeps, V-strip, foam tape, and most bulb seal products can be installed with the door in place. Only door shoes typically require removing the door.

Does weatherstripping help with noise? Absolutely. A properly sealed door can reduce noise transmission by 5–10 decibels. For maximum soundproofing, combine weatherstripping with a solid-core door and an acoustic door sweep.