How to Remove a Stripped Screw from Wood: 8 Proven Methods

Few things are more frustrating in DIY than a stripped screw — that sickening moment when your driver spins freely in the head, unable to grip. Whether it happened because of a worn bit, too much speed, or the wrong driver size, the screw is now stuck and you need it out. Here are eight proven methods, ranked from easiest to most aggressive.

Why Screws Get Stripped

Understanding why screws strip helps you prevent it in the future:

• Wrong bit size: A bit that's slightly too small won't fully engage the screw head recess, concentrating force on a small area that rounds out quickly.
• Worn driver bit: Bits wear down with use. A worn Phillips bit is the number one cause of stripped screws. Replace bits regularly.
• Too much speed: High RPM with an impact driver or drill can cam-out (the bit jumps out of the recess) and strip the head in milliseconds.
• Insufficient downward pressure: If you're not pressing the driver firmly into the screw, the bit will cam out. With Phillips screws, you need more downward pressure than most people expect.
• Soft screw material: Cheap brass screws, decorative screws, and some imported fasteners have soft metal that strips easily.
• Wrong screw type: Using a Phillips driver in a Pozidriv screw (or vice versa) causes stripping. They look similar but are not interchangeable.

Method 1: Rubber Band Trick

This should be your first attempt — it's free, fast, and works surprisingly often on mildly stripped screws.

1. Place a wide rubber band (the thick kind used for broccoli bunches) flat over the stripped screw head.
2. Press your screwdriver through the rubber band into the stripped recess.
3. Apply firm downward pressure and turn slowly.

The rubber fills the gaps in the stripped recess, providing enough grip for the driver to turn the screw. This works best on screws that are only partially stripped. For severely damaged heads, move on to the next method.

Method 2: Switch to a Flathead Screwdriver

If a Phillips screw is stripped, a flathead screwdriver that fits tightly across the remaining recess can often get enough purchase to turn the screw. Choose a flathead that's slightly wider than the stripped area and wedge it in at an angle if needed. This works especially well on larger screws where the Phillips recess has rounded but still has some depth.

Method 3: Use a Screw Extractor Bit

Screw extractors (like the Grabit or SpeedOut) are purpose-built tools for this exact problem. They're double-ended bits: one end drills into the screw, the other reverses out.

1. Chuck the drilling end into your drill. Set the drill to forward (clockwise).
2. Drill into the center of the stripped screw head at low speed. This creates a seat for the extractor.
3. Flip the bit to the extractor end. Set the drill to reverse (counterclockwise).
4. Press firmly and run the drill slowly. The extractor's left-hand threads bite into the screw and back it out.

Screw extractor sets cost $8–$20 and are an excellent investment for any toolbox. They work on about 80% of stripped screws.

Method 4: Drill It Out

If the screw extractor doesn't work, you can drill the screw out entirely. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw shank. Drill straight down through the center of the screw. This destroys the screw but frees whatever it's holding. Be careful not to enlarge the hole in the surrounding wood more than necessary. After drilling, you can usually pick out remaining screw fragments with needle-nose pliers.

Method 5: Pliers or Vise Grips

If any part of the screw head is exposed above the surface, you can grab it with locking pliers (Vise-Grips) and turn it out by hand. This is especially effective on screws where the head sits above the wood surface, such as round-head or pan-head screws.

1. Clamp the locking pliers tightly onto the screw head.
2. Turn counterclockwise while pulling slightly outward.
3. Once the screw starts turning, you can often switch back to a driver for the rest.

Method 6: Hammer a Larger Bit In

For moderately stripped screws in softwood, you can sometimes force a slightly larger driver bit into the damaged recess:

1. Select a Torx, square (Robertson), or larger Phillips bit that's slightly bigger than the current recess.
2. Place it in the stripped recess and tap it firmly with a hammer. This forces the bit into the soft metal of the screw head, creating new grip surfaces.
3. While maintaining downward pressure, turn the screw out.

Torx bits are particularly effective for this because their six-pointed star shape digs into the rounded remains of a stripped Phillips recess.

Method 7: Cut a New Slot with a Rotary Tool

If the screw head is accessible and other methods have failed, you can cut a new flathead slot across the top of the screw using a rotary tool (Dremel) with a thin cutting disc:

1. Put on safety glasses — metal fragments will fly.
2. Using a thin cut-off wheel on your rotary tool, carefully cut a straight slot across the center of the screw head. Cut deep enough for a flathead screwdriver to grip (about 1/16 inch deep).
3. Use a flathead screwdriver that fits the new slot tightly and back the screw out.

This is a very effective method but requires care not to damage the surrounding material with the cutting disc.

Method 8: Use a Left-Hand Drill Bit

Left-hand drill bits spin counterclockwise (the opposite of standard bits). When drilling into a stripped screw, the counterclockwise rotation often catches the screw and backs it out before the bit even fully drills through. They're essentially a drill-out and extractor in one step.

1. First, create a small center punch dimple in the screw to prevent the bit from wandering.
2. Chuck the left-hand bit into your drill. Set the drill to reverse (counterclockwise). The bit is designed to cut in this direction.
3. Drill into the center of the screw at low speed with firm pressure. Often, the bit will grab the screw and spin it out within the first few turns.

Left-hand drill bit sets cost $10–$25 and are available at most hardware stores.

How to Prevent Stripping Screws

• Use the right size bit. Phillips #1, #2, and #3 are all different sizes. Most common screws use #2, but check. Better yet, use Torx or square-drive screws that resist cam-out by design.
• Replace worn bits. If a bit shows any rounding on the tip, toss it. Bits are cheap; stripped screws are frustrating.
• Slow down. Use low speed on your drill, especially when seating the final turns. Impact drivers are powerful but unforgiving.
• Push hard, turn slow. The optimal technique is maximum downward pressure with slow rotation. This keeps the bit fully engaged.
• Drill pilot holes. Especially in hardwood. A pilot hole reduces resistance, meaning less torque is needed and less chance of stripping.
• Use a clutch setting. Most cordless drills have a clutch dial. Set it to a lower number for small screws so the clutch disengages before the bit cams out.
• Switch to Torx or Robertson screws. If you have the choice, star (Torx) and square (Robertson) drive screws are dramatically more resistant to stripping than Phillips. Many professional carpenters have switched entirely to Torx-head screws.

Repairing the Hole After Removal

Once the stripped screw is out, the hole may be enlarged or damaged. To reuse the same location:

• Toothpick method: Dip wooden toothpicks in wood glue, pack them into the hole, break them off flush, and let the glue dry. You can now drive a new screw into the patched hole.
• Wooden dowel method: For larger holes, drill out the damaged area with a drill bit matched to a wooden dowel. Glue the dowel in, let it dry, and drill a new pilot hole through the dowel center.
• Use a larger screw: If the hole is only slightly enlarged, simply use the next size up screw (e.g., #10 instead of #8).
• Epoxy fill: For critical applications, fill the hole with two-part epoxy wood filler, let it cure, and re-drill. This is the strongest repair option.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the rubber band trick really work? Yes, but only for mildly stripped screws where the recess still has some shape. For severely rounded-out screws, you'll need a more aggressive method.

Can I use an easy-out on a wood screw? Easy-outs (tapered extractors designed for bolts) can work on larger screws (#10 and up) but are overkill for small screws. Screw extractor bits like SpeedOut are better suited for wood screws.

Should I drill out or extract? Try extraction methods first. Drilling out should be a last resort because it enlarges the hole and makes reuse of that hole more difficult.

What's the best screwdriver for avoiding stripped screws? A high-quality driver with a correctly sized tip that's been machined (not stamped) will grip much better than a cheap one. Brands like Wera, Wiha, and Klein make excellent screwdrivers with laser-etched tips that resist cam-out.